We visited Rome on the Easter weekend in 2025 for the Jubilee year and to witness the birthday of Rome, and, just like everybody else, we were surprised by the pope's passing.
Here is what it was really like in Rome during this historic big moment.
What We Witnessed
20th April
We headed to the Vatican, a micronation in Rome and the head of the Catholic Church, where the Easter Sunday celebrations were held on Saint Peter's Square.
To enter, we had to go through a security scan before we were allowed into the square. To be honest, we expected much larger crowds for the Easter mass.
The Easter mass was delegated by the cardinal when we entered the square due to the ill health of the pope.
Nonetheless, the pope did extend his traditional blessings at the end of the celebrations, which we didn't experience anymore as we left the square.
As we left the square, we witnessed the American Vance convoy (video), which was headed to the Vatican during the mass service. Vance met the pope during the Easter mass.
21st April
On Easter Monday, we headed to the Vatican once more, as we had planned to visit the hidden German cemetery (more about this another time).
We entered Vatican City at 9:20 am with a set of people; it wasn't that busy at the time. Reflecting back, the atmosphere seemed rather quiet and somewhat subdued.
We didn't realize that the St. Peter's Basilica would be open to the public on that day, which was a surprise. So, we followed the people and walked up into the basilica.
A few visitor groups were holding prayer in the crossing and transept of the Basilica.
A handful of caretakers were taking rounds, and military personnel were present in some exit areas.
We honestly can't tell if anybody knew at the time if the pope had passed or not. There were people taking wedding photos.
We did get to visit the hidden cemetery with the code word after another security check.
The moment we stepped out of the Vatican, the news broke of the pope's passing. It was 9:45 am exactly.
Our plan was to head to the secular birthday of Rome celebration near the Circus Maximus. They had set up everything, but on our arrival, they announced that the event was unfortunately canceled.
During the rest of the day, we caught word from other visitors that some exhibitions in Rome had closed down for the day as the city was in mourning.
By the evening, it seemed as if the whole world had gathered at Vatican City, with an unlikely assemblage of people from all walks of life, devotional prayer groups, news agencies and their camera teams, and Templar and Malteser (order of Malta) volunteers.
We did a walking tour video to capture this moment in time!
I think, from this moment onward, the Vatican was packed.
Atmosphere
The mood felt very historic at the moment, and not only Catholics flocked to the Vatican to experience this significant once-in-a-lifetime experience.
It was amplified by the fact that this was a Jubilee year, which is a special holy and pilgrimage year that takes place every 25 years.
Besides, people were either traveling specifically to Rome for the Easter celebrations or after Easter to avoid the larger tourist masses.
The pope's passing and the last 3 turbulent and unpredictable months caused by the current American administration had us all feeling somewhat uneasy. The general outlook in Europe wasn't that optimistic.
Looking back at this in 2026, it all aged like milk.
Things to Know for Next Time
What you should know in case the current pope passes away and you are in Rome at the time.
The Sistine Chapel, the Vatican gardens, and the Necropolis of the Via Triumphalis were closed for Monday 28th 2025 onwards for the requirements of the conclave.
If you book tickets for the Sistine Chapel, Vatican Museum, Vatican Gardens, and the Necropolis of the Via Triumphalis during the closure period, contact the ticket organizer for a refund.
The conclave (vote of the new pope) usually takes about 10–15 days, but this event can take much longer. Nobody knows for sure when the conclave will be completed, and while it's going on, the above-mentioned places remain closed. In our case, it fortunately wrapped up fast.
The St. Peter's Cathedral and Square were open and could be visited free of charge. Keep the Italian church dress etiquette in mind.
You will have to go through a security check, and glass or metal water bottle containers are not allowed into the Vatican (they are dropped at the entrance). Drones are forbidden, and special security personnel are deployed.
The conclave is concluded, and a new pope will be elected by the appointed cardinals when the smoke comes out white from the chimney on the right next to the St. Peter's Basilica. It's visible from the Saint Peter's square.
I think the Vatican area wasn't as busy as we thought it would be.
Instead, you will be waiting in queues, and you will find yourself in a sea of masses at popular sights including the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Pantheon, Trastevere, and the subway.
Tips
Quick tips if you are in Rome when the Pope passes away.
- Book museum tickets directly online and not via third-party sites; double-check they are open. Avoid booking via Getyourguide, Klook, Viator etc.
- Prepare for longer waiting times.
- Expect sudden changes to opening times.
- Plan flexible schedules.
- Embrace the once-in-a-lifetime vibe!
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