What's a Buschenschank in Austria?

What is a Buschenschank?

A Buschenschank is a traditional wine and food tavern run by winemakers. Austria is a reputable wine country, that specializes in various white, red, and sweet wines.

Only Austrian local winemakers or fruit grove owners can receive a license to run a Buschenschänke in their region.

These special food taverns are all located in the typical Austrian wine regions. That includes primarily the regions of Styria, Burgenland, Lower Austria (aka Niederösterreich), Vienna, and partly Upper Austria (aka Oberösterreich) in Eastern Austria.

You won't find a Buschenschank in the mountains, but instead an “Alm” (they follow different traditions).

In most regions, these taverns are called Buschenschank or Buschenschenke, only in Vienna they are called Heuriger (note, a Heuriger is also a young wine from the last harvest).

These traditional establishments serve wine, and juices from their commercial productions AND regional food specialties.

Only cold, uncooked foods, such as cold cuts, cheese, and spreads, are allowed to be served, as well as specific Austrian flour-based meals (aka Mehlspeise). The rules are strictly followed.

Opening Times

Buschenschank only open their doors during specific times in the year, with summer as the designated peak season. Depending on the region and rural setting, they can have very limited opening times.

Nonetheless, every single Buschenschank opens after 4-5 pm, and most close by 9-10 or even 11 pm.

In the capital, in Vienna, you will encounter more flexible operating hours. The countryside can be very rural in certain areas in Austria and can feel rather abandoned at times.

If a Buschenschank is closed, you'll usually find another nearby that opens on that particular day. The owners tend to coordinate closing times with competing taverns.

Buschenschank are super popular among locals and tourists alike, and therefore I highly recommend getting there by 6 pm, or else you won't get a seat. They also don't take reservations; it's first come, first served.

Things to Know

Bring cash, enough for your food and drink evening, and to purchase wine bottles. Most Buschenschank do not accept cards or alternative payment methods. In fact, in my 37 years, I have never encountered a Buschenschänke that accepts a card.

Food prices tend to be on the lower end for Austrian standards in Eastern Austria.

You can purchase wine bottles directly from the Buschenschank at discounted rates. This is mostly your only chance to get a particular wine type or wine from that winemaker. Many do not sell their wine in grocery stores, as direct sales are preferred.

They also offer grape juice and other juices from their fruit tree groves, so non-alcoholics and children are not left out at all!

Menus are rarely in English, and waiters in rural Austria don't speak a lot of English; many are from neighboring countries. I recommend using your translation app with lens function to translate the menu picture in real time.

These taverns are set up with large tables, and people can always join your table if all other tables are taken. This can be great fun because you meet and get to know people that way, and everybody is slightly tipsy. Just imagine Christoph Waltz (from the movie Django Unchained) joining your table!

Vegetarian platters are rather rare. Meat and cheese are your primary food choices.

You can order a food platter and share it with your friends. The same goes for a bottle of wine. Tap water is often free of charge.

Drink Specialties

The wine offered and served at Buschenschank is their production. The vineyards are located either in Austria, Slovenia, or Hungary.

Depending on the area, you will come across exceptional wines. Places such as the Wachau in Lower Austria, Vulkanland in Styria and the Neusiedler Lake in Burgenland produce premium and rare wines.

You can learn more about Austrian wines from our interview with the president of the Austrian Wine Association of Austria (who, by the way, runs a rustic mountain chalet).

We personally enjoyed the following wine grape varieties:

• Muscat — A white and sweet wine. If you are new to wine and Buschenschank, start with this wine.
• Grüner Veltliner — An Austrian white wine grape variety.
• Wiener Gemischter Satz — A field blend and actually not a grape variety. You will only encounter this blend at a Viennese Heuriger.
• Blaufränkisch — Austrian red wine with character.
• St. Laurent — Also an Austrian grape variety, you won't find it anywhere else.
• Sweet Wines — Austria is one of the few countries in the world that produces rare sweet wines. A production cap dictates the maximum yearly production, and only a handful of towns have been traditionally producing these wines. A small bottle usually starts at €40.

Other drinks that you should try on your trip to a Buschenschanken:

• Sturm —Partially fermented grape must, which is only available in autumn. It tastes like European lemonade (it's not sweet).
• Traubenmost — Freshly pressed grape juice before it is turned to wine.
• Obstmost — Apple or pear drink with a light alcohol content.
• Grape Juice
• Schnapps — Home-distilled, clear, high percentage fruit flavored liquor.

A wine glass generally contains ⅛ liter (about 4 ounces) wine. Special sweet wines are served in 1/16 liter (about 2 ounces) quantities.

I recommend trying different wines on the menu, which means ⅛ liter (4-ounce glasses). Most people stick to either white or red on one evening.

If you are visiting as part of a group, ask for a full bottle. This can reduce the price tag at the end of the day. The waiter will let you know the price of a bottle.

Food Specialties

A Buschenschank only gets to serve up cold food specialties, and some places also offer cooked flour-based homemade dishes, such as the Kaiserschmarren.

The ingredients are always high quality and locally sourced from farmers, and they are mainly offered as a so-called “Brettljause".

The Brettljause is an assortment of cold cuts, dried cured sausages, cold cooked meats, and regional raw sausage specialties served on a wooden platter.

It can also contain a spread made of fresh raw cheese, such as the Liptauer or of pork fats (Grammelfett, Verhacktes). Cheese slices, sweet pickles, and shredded horseradish also appear on some Brettljause combos.

Typically, a Buschenschank will offer several types of Brettljause combinations, and you can choose something that suits your taste. Children's platters are offered as well, but those are reserved for children only.

Don't forget to add a basket of assorted bread to your order!

You will also find dishes such as a sausage salad or the Styrian Scarlet Runner Bean Salad with Pumpkin Seed Oil on the menu (depending on the region).

Our recommendations

The Buschenschank food offering is highly reliant on the region and its traditions. We talked to people in multiple regions, and most visitors enjoyed the food choices in Styria.

Generally speaking, Styria is a popular vacation destination thanks to the thermal water spas. So, people bathe in the day and head to a Buschenschank in the evening.

We experienced unique wines in one of the smallest cities in Austria, in Rust, Burgenland. Likewise, we can't speak for Lower and Upper Austria, as we haven't had a chance yet to try the Buschenschanken taverns there.

If you are in Vienna, don't forget to head to a Heuriger on the outskirts of the city. Most can be easily accessed via public transport, and a visit is well worth it!